66-67 Dodge Charger Source Guide

Front Suspension

Part Numbers
Q & A
Sway Bars
Torsion Bar

Rear Suspension


Posted by: Dan Robinson on 02/22/04
Mopar Performance sells new leaf springs. The ones I bought were around $150 for the set. Can't much beat that. The shops around here wanted almost that to re-arch a set of old ones.

Posted by: Curt on 02/22/04
Choose www.espo.com without question. There have been some quality concerns with the "Made in Mexico" Mopar Performance springs.

Posted by Bob & Tina Burlew on 01/17/05
I went to ESPO for rear springs. Ttheir springs had more of a sag than my originals and when I called them about it all I got was a runaround about their never having any trouble with their springs and there probably was something wrong with my car as Chrysler did funny things to the cars to make them work.  (not satisfied with the service and response)

Posted by David Walker on 03/25/06
I replaced the rear suspension in the winter of 2005. Initially I was going to throw money at the worn out rear springs and purchase a Just Suspension Rear Upgrade Kit, but the $595.00 scared me off.

Once again Ken Garrett came to my rescue with an idea to get the springs re-arched at a local shop here in Charlotte. This turned out to be just what I needed. Priced under $200.00 was a lot better for the results I needed.

I installed the "new" springs with new bushings and hanger bolts etc. The work was dirty but I had it done in an afternoon.

Raising or Lowering the Rear End

Posted by: Robert Spelic on 12/08/05
I have raised and lowered mine for racing purposes. In fact way too many times. After trying the easy way (Air shocks), I ended up with new springs. I tried about 3 different sets of springs until I got the right "attitude". I think the air shock route is still the cheapest route if cost is the limiting biggest factor in raising the car.

It took about a year of farting around before I finally added a set of front eye spring brackets (John P. sells a good bracket), that has multiple holes drilled in it that enables you to move the leaf spring front bolt hole up and down and also forward and back. With all that adjustment it is possible to raise and lower the rear about 2". If the car is not low enough, a lowering block (2" block of aluminum) can be installed between the leafs and the axle tube.

There are many other things to be wary of when changing the rake of the car and those include making sure the pinion angle stays in the 3 to 5 degree nose down range, that the driveshaft length is still OK if you move the rear-end back some, and that the spring perch location pin (and "anti-rotation" pin) stay engaged if a lowering block is used.

Be sure to post what your going to try here first and see if anyone has done that and what challenges that ran into. Air shocks are certainly the easiest.