66-67 Dodge Charger Source Guide

Torsion Bar

Q

03/19/04
Paul Farrell:What is the proper way to re-install torsion bars on a 67 charger? What postion should the adjustor be in so that ride height/preload can be adjusted?

A

03/19/04
Bob Spelic:
Remove the adjuster stud and nut entirely.
Loosen the bolt on the lower control arm bushing so that everything is a little wobbly (best if lower ball joint isn�t installed yet).
Slide the torsion bar from the rear of the car through the cross member mounted bushing.
Slide the new boot over the wheel opening side of the bar (I forgot to install the new boot and had to do one side over)
Rotate the bar and move the lower control arm up and down until you get the bar and the lower control arm hex bushing to hex�s to align.
Lightly tap the bar forward until it seats into the lower control arm.
If the rear hex isn�t lining up then use the installation/removal tool to flex the bar some then lightly tap it in. (I didn�t have the tool and used vise grips)
Install the clip in the rear bushing.
Be sure the bar can slide fore and aft about � inch.
Install the adjuster nut in the lower control arm
Thread in the bolt (adjuster) and set the desired ride height.

A

03/19/04
Ken Westerlund:I am not sure if I am reading this right, but I would NEVER use vice grips (or anything else that could scratch) the torsion bars. ANY scratches, nicks, ect, can cause stress risers that could lead to the failure of the bar. If there are any nicks the bar should be replaced or maybe small nicks and scratches could be polished out.

A

04/12/04
Cory: Loosen the nut on the lower control arm stud and knock it rearward, that will move the bar without touching it. Sometimes you can pry on the lower control arm to move it rearward but you risk seperating a worn-out bushing. You might have to take the nut completely off to get the rear of the torsion bar free from the anchor point. It's always best to have the stud loose in the hole when you're installing torsion bars, less fighting. Be sure to tighten the lower control arm stud nut AFTER setting the ride height and with the front suspension compressed and supporting the car.

A

04/12/04
John Paseman:

Here is a picture of a tool I made the other day to take the torsion bars out of my 66 Charger. It is a 6" piece of 2x2 x .125 wall square tube welded to a 12" long piece of 2x2 x .250 angle iron. In the picture, I have a piece of copper tube in the tool where the torsion bar would normally be clamped.

I drilled 8 - 1/2" holes in the angle iron to allow some turnbuckles to fit through. I bought the turnbuckles at home depot (stainless at under $2 ea). The torsion bar nestles in the "V" of the angle iron and the turnbuckles are snugged down to hold the tool tight.

Don't overtighten them! With 3 turnbuckles you do not have to clamp down too hard on them and it holds the torsion bar nicely while you tap on the handle part (the 2x2 square tube) with a hammer. Torsion bar will then slide out the back.

Hope that helps - if anyone needs one of these custom made, drop me a note. They would be about $25 (steel prices have gone crazy lately) . Alternatively, you could get almost all the parts at your local home depot and have a local muffler shop weld it up for you.