06/03/03
Harry: Took my 66 to a car show over the weekend, TOOK 2ND PLACE.
At the end of the show, I noticed my interior lights, clock and
brake lights did not work. I replaced all 6 of the fuses in the fuse block, but no luck. Does anyone know what else I can do to fix this?
06/03/03
Don: I checked the wiring diagram and all of the lights you mentioned
EXCEPT the clock light (which is an EL light) comes from a common
point somewhere under the dash where the +12 volts is picked off to
the lights. The point is M1C and it is a pink wire. The pink wire
goes to a 6 position plug pin 3 where you should have +12 volts and
you can test this with a test light if'n you can find the plug and
pin 3. From the 6 position plug it goes via another pink wire to an
eight position plug pin 1 from pin 1 it goes to the Accessory fuse
pink wire and on the other side of the fuse it comes from the
battery. The car show had nothing to do with the lights stopping
unless someone wiggeled one of the plugs and made it lose contact
witht eh +12 volts. The clock should also be stopped if it was
working before as the pink wire changes to a grey wire and also goes
to the clock. You want the clock to run all the time you know. The
courtsy lights operate via the plunger switch on the door jam placing
ground on the bulb housing providing the complete circuit for the
light to burn. BTW: The 8 position plug also houses the brake light
wire going to the left and right brake lights. Find that 8 position
plug and re-seat the plug. It has a yellow wire, pink wire, brown
wire, violet wire, dark blue wire, black wire, and dark green wire.
06/03/03
Paul:
I believe all of those lights run off the same harness that connects behind the driver's kick panel. It's possible there's a bad connection there.
06/04/03
John Borris: You might be experiencing the same problem that I encountered.
Take a test light and check the fuse for the lights. My light fuse although
not burnt was not making contact with the fuse holder properly. I removed
it and cleaned the fuse holder and reinstalled the fuse and then all worked
06/09/03
Rick: Definitely sounds like the turn signal switch. They're not reproduced
to my knowledge, and they're different from the '67s. When I had the
problem, (one brake light, no brake lights, intermittent) I used one
of those fiberglass strand pen sanders (Nic Sander) to clean all the
contacts and the problem never returned (yet). Once you pull the
wheel, and remove the canceling cam, there will be two sliders (top &
bottom) that regulate the turn signals. May as well clean these while
you're in there. Make sure to install them exactly as they came out.
Towards the lower left will be the contacts for the brake lights.
Check the voltage here (pedal up & down) to make sure power is getting
this far. They will probably have a bit of carbon built up on them
from 36 years of arcing. Clean these with the nick sander and bend
(gently) the contacts as needed. Function checking can be done with
the wheel still off. With clean contacts, and a good connection, brake
lights should work.
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